This is my next project, a Vogue 9850 skirt in Jacquard denim with a poly charmeuse lining. This pattern is no longer in print, but I have seen it on some vintage pattern sites. I have had this pattern in my filing cabinet since the ’80s and always wanted to make it. At the time I bought the pattern, I had a Ralph Lauren skirt that was very similar and loved it.
I like to keep all of my patterns in 1-inch accordion file folders. The envelope figures and pertinent information are glued/pasted onto the front. Then I label the folder and add a color-coded tag. The tag indicates a category (i.e., skirts, dresses, tops, pants, etc.), so that I can easily find it in my filing cabinet. In the folder, I keep the original pattern (which is traced off and not damaged), my altered pattern and any extra pattern pieces that I add (i.e., facings, sleeves, etc.) and possibly the muslin.
I am using View C, which has box pleats in the front and back. To begin, I traced off the pattern and adjusted the traced off pattern to my size. Then I cut out a muslin for fitting.
After I tried on the muslin and marked my adjustments, such as the proper location of the side seams, I drafted a new pattern to be used when cutting out the fabric. Since the original pattern had only 2-inch pleats that were sewn down for only 2-inches, which looked stupid, I deepened them by adding an additional 3-inches in width and extended the sewn-down portion to 4-inches. This is much better, but I might make them even bigger the next time I sew this pattern. It would also look great if the pleats were sewn down much farther down the front and back, and then top-stitched.
The fashion fabric is a stretch denim Jacquard that I purchased from Emma One Sock. For now, you can find it here. Once it is sold out, I’m not sure that it will be restocked. It also comes in a blue colorway.
The lining is a stretch polyester charmeuse that I purchased from Vogue Fabrics. You can find it here. I usually line all of my garments with silk or rayon. But, since I knew this skirt was going to go in the wash and needed to be more sturdy, I decided that this poly fabric would be okay. I didn’t draft a separate pattern for the lining. Instead, I pinned out the box pleats all the way to the hem.
I have cut out Part 2 will discuss sewing up the skirt. Until then, happy sewing.