Rainy Day Color Lover

Rainy Day Color Lover

Color Lover

It has been raining a lot around here. So, to combat that strange rainy grey light and perk myself up, I like to wear bright colors. In that spirit, here is a Color Lover for rainy days.

Portulaca Rainy Day Color Lover

Portulaca For A Rainy Day Color Lover

I took this photo of portulaca last summer. I hope that it perked you up too.

May 20, 2015
Good Muslin Versus Bad

Good Muslin Versus Bad


If you fit your garments, you are probably in the habit of sewing test garments known as “muslins.” Many people make these test garments out of a sturdy plain weave cotton fabric known as muslin. Thus the name “muslin” for the test garment. In the U.S., muslin is generally undyed, though one could use any plain weave fabric, such as quilting fabric, for this purpose.

I have tried a few types of muslin. As a cost savings, I used to use the cheapest muslin available at Joann’s. However, that didn’t turn out to be very satisfactory. That cheap muslin was very thin (almost tissue weight) and usually off grain. Since it is a good idea to test-drive your garment using (1) a fabric of similar weight to the fashion fabric and (2) a fabric with a straight grain, my muslins have been limp and a bit catty-wumpus.

Recently, I discovered that Emma One Sock sells a medium weight muslin. (I’m sure that other companies sell this muslin. I just haven’t looked yet.) This muslin is a dream to work with. It has a good hand and sufficient body. I love how it feels. The grain is always straight and I can easily tell if my test garment is hanging correctly. The selvedge (a.k.a., selvage or selvege) of this muslin are tightly woven, which I just plain enjoy.

Woven Seledge Of Mulin

Woven Selvedge Of Muslin

Tip: Good quality selvedges make terrific twill tape. To make the twill tape, tear the selvedges off of the large/long muslin scraps, put them in a lingerie bag and then pre-shrink them by machine washing and drying. If you give the selvedge strips a good press and then wind them around a card or spool, then the twill tape will be ready to go when you need it.

This good quality muslin is easy to tear and tears cleanly, so that you have crisp, straight on-grain edges for aligning the fabric on the cross-grain.

Aligning The Torn Edges

Aligning The Torn Edges

I like that this muslin makes a crisp fold when finger-pressed.  Making a crisp fold can be useful when laying out a pattern (see below).

Laying Out A Pattern For Fitting With Muslin Fabric

Laying Out A Pattern For Fitting With Muslin Fabric

Since I can go through several fittings, I use a lot of muslin. I am contemplating buying a bolt of this muslin. Maybe I can get a bit of a price break.

BTW, did you notice how the fabric is not hanging off the end of my table? Allowing the fabric to do that would make it pull and mess up the fitting. So, instead of letting the fabric hang off of the end of the table, I prefer to fold the fabric so that it is out of my way. It is fine to do this after you have pinned the pattern to the fabric.

May 17, 2015
PANTONE Fashion Color Report Fall 2015

PANTONE Fashion Color Report Fall 2015

Color Palette

This year’s PANTONE Fashion Color Report came out this past February. I have been thinking about it for a while. Let’s check it out.

PANTONE Fashion Color Report: Fall 2015

PANTONE Fashion Color Report: Fall 2015

At first, I really didn’t care for any of these colors. I am generally attracted to bright, intense jewel-like colors, so these colors seemed dull and grey to me. But, after working with these colors in Photoshop, I think that I have changed my mind about at least a few of them.

In particular, I am drawn to Biskay Bay (why not Biskay-N, with an “N”??) and Reflecting Pond. I love blues. It would be terrific to make another Sobretto top with these two colors. One could be the main fashion fabric, and the other could be used for the binding. But, now that I am looking at them, I think that you could take any two of these colors and combine them into a Sobretto. For tops, I would choose any of these colors. But, for pants and skirts, I would choose Stormy Weather (thinking of Lena Horne here) and Reflecting Pond.

What do you think of these colors?

According to the PANTONE press release:

PANTONE® Fashion Color Report Fall 2015, a comprehensive overview of designers’ use of color in their upcoming collections. Released to coincide with New York Fashion Week, the PANTONE Fashion Color Report features the top 10 colors for women’s and men’s fashion for Fall 2015, along with designer sketches and inspiration. The complete report is available at www.pantone.com/fall2015.

“Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette.”
This Fall, designers pay homage to progressive moments in American history – from the seductive ‘20s to the bohemian hippie and modernists of the ‘60s and ‘70s – while stringing together an affection for colors and styling that are innately easy to wear by both men and women.
The top colors for men’s and women’s fashion for Fall 2015 are:
PANTONE 16-0110 Desert Sage
PANTONE 18-4214 Stormy Weather
PANTONE 16-1144 Oak Buff
PANTONE 17-0627 Dried Herb
PANTONE 18-1438 Marsala
PANTONE 18-4726 Biscay Bay
PANTONE 15-1340 Cadmium Orange
PANTONE 16-2215 Cashmere Rose
PANTONE 19-4326 Reflecting Pond
PANTONE 17-3628 Amethyst Orchid

Just for fun, here is Lena Horne singing Stormy Weather.

May 5, 2015

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